![]() 04/13/2018 at 17:46 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
replaced the broken wheel stud but during the, tightening phase, the lug started deforming, I thought well I’ll put a washer in there too spread out the pressure. As you can see I finished tightening until the stud was seated properly, however remnants of the now ruined extra lug and washer are now part of the hub. I can still use the stud fine, and the lug nuts fit despite he little ding mark, and the caliper and lug design prevent them from fighting all the way down to hub. My question is; although it will work how should I have done it? I was following the YouTube video steps and he just tightened them down, no problem. Thanks. Now to replace air filter and oil (I doubt there is anyway to screw that up as It’s second nature now ).
![]() 04/13/2018 at 18:11 |
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Deforming? I’m a bit concerned that what you’re using there is too soft. Is the replacement stud from a reputable manufacturer? My 10,000 foot view on this is that it looks like some kind of weak, porous, zinc plated Chinese junk.
![]() 04/13/2018 at 18:20 |
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The stud itself didn’t deform but the lug did deform, however this was just an extra laying around that I wasn’t going to use on the car. My mistake was to buy a zinc washer in between to try to minimize the deforming, that I thought was taking place due to the beveled edges of the stud mounting holes. It apparently made it worse by compressing bits of the washer into the gap. I think you answered my question though. If I had used my good lugs to tighten into place this wouldn’t have happened.
![]() 04/13/2018 at 18:43 |
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C-clamp and deep well socket over stud.
![]() 04/13/2018 at 19:18 |
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These are knurled wheel studs, right? Maybe the knurl was a little too big for the hole?
![]() 04/14/2018 at 06:57 |
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You should have used an open wheel nut, and used the flat side of the nut towards the hub. It looks like you had the pointy side facing the hub.